Hana Hudson

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Final installation of Unmaking project

Unmaking

Graduate Project, CSM MA Biodesign, 2021-2022, London, UK

What can the fashion industry learn from textile decomposition?

Unmaking displays co-creative process between a human designer, deadstock textile and compost. There are around 9 billion organisms in one teaspoon of compost, creating a vibrant living system - compost therefore presents an opportunity for designing with, and through, soil.

In the project, I am revisiting my past design practice by upcycling overproduced, deadstock drawstring bags, previously used as packaging. In contact with compost and under optimal conditions, cotton - a cellulosic textile, is slowly broken down by bacteria, fungi, and macro-organisms. During this decomposition process the textile becomes imprinted with pigments through microorganisms' decay as well as by pigmented bacteria, resulting in an innovative and double-sided print. This print mirrors the beaming life of this diverse living system through a process usually linked with departure from life.

Through the way compost is applied to the textile, the human designer explores agency of the living and non-living actors - the compost is either contained by 3D printed forms or covering the whole textile. The cotton with the undesired old text, the strings and the compost print all play a vital role during the unmaking process, presented through a modular wall hanging installation.

Unmaking aims to demystify decomposition and display agency in design through an exploratory, approachable and considerate process.

The co-creative process of Unmaking, elements interacting together and informing the design process
Compost

Compost

Mature compost is a result of an incredible effort of different microorganisms which produce heat as a by-product fostering the onset of other bacteria. Passively, in a regular garden heap, this takes about 12 months and the result is a dark rich mature compost used for the Unmaking process.

Text on the Fabric

Text on the Fabric

As the project utilises upcycling of printed drawstring bags, covering the black, waterbased ink became an important aspect shaping the overall design.

Human Designer

Human Designer

Through biodesign, me - the human designer, is investigating the limits of this textile’s lifecycle

Strings

Strings

Strings come from the original drawstring bags and in this installation act as a connection between the panels of the installation.

Drawstring Bags

Drawstring Bags

In the project, I am revisiting my past design practice by upcycling the 100+ pieces of overproduced, deadstock drawstring bags, previously used as packaging.  These are made of organic unbleached cotton, sewn with cotton thread and printed with black water-based text, and due to this text, they are no longer usable.

Research

Decomposition of cellulosic textiles

In contact with compost and under optimal conditions, cellulosic textiles are slowly broken down by bacteria, fungi, and macro-organisms. During this decomposition process the textile becomes imprinted with pigments through microorganisms' decay as well as by pigmented bacteria.

Container filled with compost
Container filled with compost
Container filled with compost

Stages of decomposition

Cataloguing decomposition helps exploring the limits of cellulosic textiles and provides deeper understanding of them.

cotton1.jpg
cotton2.jpg
cotton3.jpg
cotton4.jpg
linen1.jpg
linen2.jpg
linen3.jpg
linen4.jpg
hemp1.jpg
hemp2.jpg
hemp3.jpg
hemp4.jpg

PRINT THROUGH DECOMPOSITION

This print is created by diversity. What can be observed on it?

Dark spots

Difference in Opaqueness

Change in structural integrity of fabric as a result of the decomposition process

Holes

Holes

One step further than change in opaqueness - loss of structrual integrity of fabric

Dark spots

Dark spots

Dyed by carbon from microbial breakdown

Vivid colours

Occasional vivid colours

Potentially dyed by the fungi and bacteria living in the compost

Day 1Day 7
original cotton canvas
decomposed cotton canvas
original cotton canvas
decomposed cotton canvas
original cotton canvas
decomposed cotton canvas

How can this process be used in design practice?

Installation

Installation image
Installation image
Installation image
Installation image
Installation image
Installation image